Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Praga Cantat 29th October - 1st November 2010


24th PRAGA CANTAT 2010

International Choir Competition and Festival

Trip Organisers: Choir Contact International

Friday 29th October

08:15 Check-In Dublin Airport for Aer Lingus flight EI 644 to Prague

10:45 Depart Dublin Airport

14:10 Arrive Prague Airport

On arrival after collection of luggage please proceed to arrivals area where you will be met by your English speaking guide for coach transfer to your hotel.

Your hotel address in Prague: Dorint Hotel Don Giovanni

16:30 Coach transfer with your guide to the residence of the Irish ambassador, Na Vadorce 19, in Prague 6

18:00 Choir director and president depart residence with guide for the Town Hall by private car transfer

18:30 Reception for all choir directors and vice presidents (2 per choir) at the Town Hall, Old Town Square. Return to hotel by metro

19:30 Coach transfer from Irish Ambassador’s residence back to your hotel.

20.00 Group dinner at your hotel

Saturday 30th October

Group breakfast at your hotel.

Transfer from your hotel with your guide to the National House. Please ensure that you have your choir uniforms with you

10.00 Official opening concert at the National House starring the famous Czeck choir “Bambini di Praga” (duration approx. 1 hour)

After the concert free time for lunch.

14.35 “Check-in” at the National House. Opportunity for a short rehearsal

15.20 Festival concert at the National House

Directly after your performance one member of the jury will discuss the evaluation of your performance with your choir director.

16.00 Transfer from the National House with your guide to your hotel

17.00 Group Dinner at your hotel

18.20 Coach transfer from your hotel to the State Opera for evening performance

19:00 The opera performance “La Boheme” begins at the State Opera

21:30 Transfer from The State Opera back to your hotel. Driver will advise pick up point

Sunday 30th October 2010

Group breakfast at your hotel

09:15 Coach transfer from your hotel with your guide to church for mass

09:45 – 10:15 Choir Rehearsal with organ at the church

10.30 Church service begins at the St Cross Church in Prague 1

Free time for optional lunch after mass.

Your Guide will advise meeting point and time after Lunch for city tour of Prague including a visit to Prague Castle.

Return back to your hotel in the late afternoon.

18:00 Group dinner at your hotel

19:15 Coach transfer from your hotel to the National House

20:00 Closing Ceremony and Prize Giving awards in all choir categories. Following, the compulsory music songs are sung together. Followed by music and dance at the National House.

23.30 Coach transfer back to your hotel

Monday 1st November 2010

Breakfast at your hotel in the morning and check out

(Your luggage can be deposited at the hotel until your transfer to the airport in the late afternoon

12:45 Coach Transfer to Prague Airport

13:45 Check-In Prague Airport for Aer Lingus flight EI 645 to Dublin

15:45 Depart Prague Airport

17:25 Arrival Dublin Airport

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Sunday, September 12, 2010

Irish College Paris

Paris is not renowned for good value hotels – you can pay through the nose for a hotel you’d turn that same nose up at elsewhere. This makes the Irish College Paris, or the Centre Culturel Irlandais to give it its proper title, well worth checking out.

Located in the historic Latin quarter of Paris, in the 5th arrondissement, it is a short walk from the Pantheon and the Sorbonne and easily accessible by public transport, connecting directly with Orly and Charles de Gaulle airports, as well as the Gare du Nord.

The college offers short-term accommodation to both Irish residents and visitors with an interest in Irish culture, subject to a minimum stay of two nights.

This month, rates are €74 a night for a single and €103 for a double. Prices come down the longer you stay, meaning you can get a double room for a week for €502.

And you get much more than just a room. There’s a series of cultural events ongoing at the centre. Time it right this autumn and you’ll be there just in time for an audience with novelist John Connolly – admission free, reservation recommended.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Musee de Beaux Arts Rennes

Musee de Beaux Arts Rennes

The Musée des Beaux-Arts de Rennes, like many French museums, was a creation of the Revolution. Founded in 1794 with works confiscated from the city's religious and civil buildings, the museum in fact owes most of the wealth of its collection to the fabulous 'cabinet of curiosities' collected by Christophe-Paul de Robien (1698-1756), President of the Parliament of Brittany. After two years of work, the Museum of Fine Arts in Rennes has reopened February 9, 2010 its permanent collection rooms, restyled, extended and enriched with new masterpieces: 320 paintings of which about fifty have never been shown.

Due to its lack of a suitable building, the museum has never been able to exhibit the whole range of its diverse collection. It has a fine reputation as an art gallery, due to the signal quality of its pictures, though this is only a partial image of its potential. It contains strangely few sculptures -  not the result of the destructions of the last war, which mainly affected the 19th century works, but rather that the two main sources of the collection, Robien and works lent by the French state, had very few to offer.
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Ongles

4, rue Vau Saint-Germain

La sélection Michelin

Les 60 000 étudiants, qui animent la vie de la capitale régionale de la Bretagne, lui donnent une image dynamique, largement tournée vers la culture. a de plus conservé ses rues médiévales, étroites et sinueuses, miraculeusement préservées du ... lire la suite. Les 60 000 étudiants, qui animent la vie de la capitale régionale de la Bretagne, lui donnent une image dynamique, largement tournée vers la culture. a de plus conservé ses rues médiévales, étroites et sinueuses, miraculeusement préservées du gigantesque incendie de 1720. Ses deux places royales, ses édifices publics et ses nombreux hôtels particuliers lui procurent une élégante solennité.

SITES TOURISTIQUES

• Hôtel de ville de Rennes

• Basilique St-Sauveur

• Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville

• Place du Champ-Jacquet

• Palais du parlement de Bretagne

RESTAURANTS

• Le Quatre B
4 place de Bretagne – Fermé les lun. et sam. midi et le dim. tte la journée.

Tél./Fax : 02 99 30 42 01

Formule midi 12 Û et 16 Û – Menus 21 à 27 Û – 55 couverts – Groupes < 35 – GB – I / GB /o

Michelin 2009 – Le Bottin Gourmand 2010 – Champérard 2010

Décor contemporain, avec une ambiance bistrot le midi, dans un cadre épuré le soir. Esprit lounge :

luminaires murano tamisés, rideaux de perles…Cuisine traditionnelle et évolutive dans le tempo actuel.

"Que serait ce lieu sans l'accueil chaleureux et personnalisé d'Angéline Anfray."

(BIB gourmand) (Pudlo 2009).

• Léon le Cochon

1 rue Maréchal Joffre – Ouvert 7j/7 (sauf le dim. en juil.-août)

Tél. : 02 99 79 37 54 / Fax : 02 99 79 07 35

11,47 à 37 Û – 90 couverts – Groupes < 90 – GB – D – E / GB / CV

Gault et Millau 2010 – Champérard 2010

Cuisine de bistrot. Authentiques plats du terroir réalisés avec des produits labellisés ou en

arrivage direct. (Guide du Routard 2010, Lieux de Toujours 2010). Entrez chez Léon au cours d'un

repas entre copains...comme cochons !


• Le Guehennec

33 rue Nantaise – Fermé le sam. midi, le lun. soir et le dim.

Tél. : 02 99 65 51 30 / Fax : 02 99 65 68 26

18 à 48 Û – 24 couverts – Groupes < 12 – o

Gault et Millau 2010 – Le Bottin Gourmand 2010 – Champérard 2010

Chef de cuisine : Gérard Le Guehennec. Cuisine d'instinct et de tradition avec le meilleur du marché ;

décor sobre et contemporain. (Guide du Routard)


• Les Carmes

2 rue des Carmes – Fermé le dim.soir et le lun.

Tél./Fax : 02 99 79 28 95

les.carmes@orange.fr

13 à 50 Û – 34 couverts – GB / o

Champérard 2010

Nouveau cadre et cuisine à découvrir. Du pain à la glace, tout est fait maison. Quartier Vasselot-

Zola. (Guide du routard 2008 - Petits restos des grands chefs 2008)
 
• Le Petit Sabayon

16 rue des Trente – Fermé le dim. et le lundi.

02 99 35 02 04 – lepetitsabayon@free.fr

15 à 45 Û – 22 couverts - Groupes < 25 – GB – E

Gault et Millau 2010 – Le Bottin Gourmand 2010 – Champérard 2010

Resto-bistrot à dénicher. Cuisine de chef à base de produits frais mêlant tradition et inspiration

du moment. Accueil convivial et service attentionné.

Mercure Centre Gare

Saturday, August 21, 2010

Metro Map of Rennes

Mercure Rennes Centre Gare

Mr Didier PIOT, the manager of the Mercure Rennes Centre Gare, would like to welcome you.

Located in the centre of Rennes, this 142 room hotel invites you to experience the magic atmosphere of the Broceliande forest. 5 minutes walk from the TGV railway station, this airconditioned hotel features a bar serving light meals as well as room service. All rooms have access to the hotel WiFi network. Cold drinks and small snacks are also available to guests 24 hours a day at Boutique M. 100 percent non smoking hotel.

le Four à Ban

In the XVIIth century, the rue Saint Melaine was already famous for its superb oven, one of these places where the people of Rennes used to come to have their bread baked.

Today it is one of the recommended addresses in town, and the Four à Ban is entirely renovated.

Wood, glass and stone have been associated and it gives the ancient house a touch of modernity; the glass certainly gives it a certain kind of luminosity, highlighting the old fireplace and exposed beams.

And today still, the bread is baked twice a day at le Four à Ban…

But the establishment is above all well known for its refined cuisine and friendly atmosphere.

In the kitchen we find Jacques Faby, who used to have stars in the Michelin guide but who gave up these distinctions for a calmer atmosphere and to do what he likes best, welcome and satisfy his guests in his own way. And he certainly knows how to charm with an original kind of cuisine, very fresh and tasty.

He mixes his Mediterranean origins with the excellent flavours of his region of adoption, allying the sunshine of the South and Breton traditions, in a refined and elegant way.

The ideal gourmet menu, composed especially for you, will lead you on a discovery of the Chef’s most appreciated compositions, giving you a wide range of choices. The most demanding taste buds will no doubt be satisfied.

With a most professional welcome and service, whether you come for a family gathering or with friends, as a couple or for a business meal, you are certain to have an exceptional time at Le Four à Ban!

Friday, August 20, 2010

Rennes

The regional capital of Brittany, has, over the past decades, restored its archtectural heritage, thus highlighting its dignified elegance. This city of artistic and historical interest, where good food is highly valued, exudes atmosphere from its narrow, winding medieval streets, lined with charming half-timbered houses with carved sills, which happily escaped the ravages of a huge fire in1720. The stately public buildings and numerous private mansions adorning the two royal squares (place du Palais and place de I'H6tel-de-Ville) at the very heart of the town, delimited to the south by the lively quays along the Vilaine. Rennes is also a university city which has become a centre of and communications industry.

Old Town

This is the part of the old town which escaped the fire. It contains a maze of 15C and 16C houses with overhanging storeys and lordly mansions with sculpted facades.

Basilique St-Sauveur

17 and 18C. Inside this basilica are a fine gilded wooden canopy and an organ loft (17C). To the right is a chapel consecrated to Our Lady of Miracles who saved Rennes from the English during the siege of 1357. Note the numerous ex-votos which have been donated in gratitude to Our Lady.

Old Houses

Rue St-Sauveur - No 6 stands a 16C canon's residence.

Rue St-Guillaume - No 3, a beautiful medieval house, known as Maison De Guesdin, contains the restaurant Ti Koz.

Rue de la Psalette -This street is lined with old houses.

Rue du Chapitre No 22 is a Renaissance house; no 8 is the Hotel de Brie (17C); no 6 the 18C Hotel de Blossac with a fine granite staircase (on the left as you enter) with marble columns and a wrought-iron handrail.

Cathedrale St-Pierre

The third built on the site since the 6C, the cathedral was finished in 1844 after 57 years' work. The previous building collapsed in 1762 except for the two towers in the Classical style flanking the façade.

The interior is very rich, its stucco facing covered with paintings and gilding. The cathedral contains a masterpiece: the gilded and carved wood altarpiec¬e in the chapel before the south transept. Both in size and in execution this 6C Flemish work is one of the most important of its kind. The scenes represent the life of the Virgin.

Portes Mordelaises

The city's main entrance, these gates are all that remain of the 15C ramparts The kings of Brittany passed through it on their way to the cathedral for their coronations. In 1598 the silver-gilt keys of the city were presented there to Henri IV. At this kind of ceremony the Bearnais made a statement which always went down well. “These are beautiful keys," he would say, "but I would rather have the keys to the hearts of your citizens."

The drawbridge, modeled on that of Montmuran Castle, was reconstructed in 1997.

Place des Lices

Jousts and tournaments were once held on this square. At no 34 stands a 17C mansion, the Hotel de Molant, with a mansard roof; inside, there is a sumptuous oak staircase with trompe-I'ceil paintings (a skyscape) and woodwork decorating the ceiling of its stairwell.

Rue St-Michel

This street is lined with half-timbered houses and still has the inns and taverns dating from the time when it was part of the city's suburbs.

Place Ste-Anne

The coloured half-timbered houses, Gothic and Renaissance in style, surround a neo-Gothic church. The house formerly occupied by Mayor Leperdit is at no 19. The square is next to rue d'Echange, which contains the Jacobin Convent whereAnne of Brittany was betrothed to the king of France.

Rue du Pont-aux-Foulons

This is a shopping street with 18C half-timbered houses.

Rue du Champ-Jacquet

This street leads to an oddly shaped triangular square of the same name. It is lined to the north with tall half-timbered 17C houses and is overlooked by the stone and wood facade of Hotel de Tize (no 5).

The itinerary continues along rue La Fayette and rue Nationale into the classical part of the city with its majestic buildings, in particular the Palais du Parlement de Bretagne.

Rue St-Georges

This animated street, lined with cafes and restaurants, has many old houses: Nos 8 10 and 12 form a remarkable group of 17C half-timbered houses. No 3, the 16C 16C Hotel de Moussaye, has a lovely Renaissance facade with sculptured pilasters.

Palais St-Georges

Preceded by a beautiful garden, this former Benedictine abbey (1670) now houses administrative services.

Eglise St-Germain

This Flamboyant church (15C-16C) with its 17C gable (on the south side) retains certain characteristics typical of a Breton cathedral: wood vaulting and its beams with sculpted ends. In the south transept the beautiful 16C stained-glass window recounts the life of the Virgin and the Passion. The nave contains modern stained glass windows by Max Ingrand.

Place de I'Hotel de Ville

This regal square is the centre of the Classical district. On its west side stands the town hall (Hotel de Ville) and on the east side, the theatre. To the south, beyond rue d'Orleans, the view is blocked by the Palais du Commerce (Trade Hall), an imposing buildinq decorated with monumental sculpture.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Rennes on WikiTravel

Click here

Five things to do in Rennes

In a nutshell: Rennes, the capital of Brittany, is a city of contrasts, where 2,000 years of history lie comfortably with a modern, youthful vibe. Much, though not all, of its early architecture was destroyed in 1720, when a drunken carpenter spilled a chandelier which started a six-day fire that rampaged through the city’s wooden buildings. Hence, many of the centre’s buildings date back to the 18th century. Today Rennes is known as a busy, student-friendly city and the safest city of its size in France.

When to visit: More than 50,000 of Rennes’ population are students, so summer months are quite empty of people. Spring and autumn are much more lively times to visit and early December usually hosts the very worthwhile Transmusical Festival.

Watch out for: Shops close between 12pm and 2pm each day, and all day on Sundays.

Useful website:

1. Remember ye olde times

In medieval times, the Place des Lices was a site for jousting knights. Today the space is used for a covered, open-air food market. Reconstructed jousting battles take place on Saturday mornings and the sounds of the clash of lances on shields can be heard over the hustle, bustle and good natured bargaining of one of France’s largest markets.

2. Pancakes every day

When in Rome, do as the Romans do, but when in Rennes visit a creperie. These houses of gastronomic delight are the places to find the typical Breton galettes and crepes. Similar to pancakes but made using Buckwheat flour, galettes are savory treats packed with a choice of cheese, ham, eggs and more. At a meal it is common to order a series of galettes and crepes, one after the other. Rue St Melaine is lined with a number of quality creperies.

3. Quench your thirst

Given the size of the student population, it comes as no surprise that the nightlife in Rennes is a vibrant one. The centre of the action is Rue St Michel, a narrow, cobbled, medieval street with wooden framed buildings. It has earned itself the nickname ‘Rue de la Soif’ which translates as ‘street of thirst’. Further away in Legraverend, the Couleurs Cafe (www.couleurscafe.com) - a world record breaker for having thousands of types of cocktails - is a great place to start or finish up the night.

4. Throw shapes

The Theatre National du Bretagne is renowned throughout France for its eclecticism and bold presentations. If you don’t speak French, sitting through a three-hour tragedy could be a bit of a drag. Alternatively, the theatre regularly runs dance and music productions. The wonder and wow-factor of the theatre’s Circus Arts performances, however, transcend any language barriers. Visit www.t-n-b.fr for a full programme.

5. Take a trip

An hour’s drive north of Rennes is the stunning Mont Saint Michel (www.ot-montsaintmichel.com), a gothic-styled Benedictine Abbey located on a small quasi-island. Having been an abbey, a fortress under siege and a prison, Mont Saint Michel was made a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 1979 and attracts more than three million visitors a year. Take a day trip to explore the abbey and small village that have grown inside its fortified walls. Wander the narrow twisted lanes, have mussels and chips for lunch at one of the fine restaurants and take a guided tour of the abbey. Les Courriers buses depart from Rennes daily (http://www.lescourriersbretons.fr/).

Summer Movies

  1. Greenberg
  2. Repo Men
  3. The Last Song
  4. Clash of the Titans
  5. Cop Out
  6. Grown Ups
  7. Karate Kid
  8. Killers
  9. Nanny McPhee 2
  10. Sex and the City 2
  11. The Ghost Writer
  12. Toy Story 3
  13. Death at a Funeral
  14. Furry Vengeance
  15. Splice
  16. Suspect Zero
  17. Turtle the Incredible Journey

Monday, August 9, 2010

What's on this August

Far de Morlaix
Art de la rue
Different shows combining theatre, music and street theatre are on offer, free of charge during a whole week in the town of Morlaix.
Contact : http://www.artsdanslarue.com/

Onion festival in Roscoff : 20-22 August
Gastronomy
The onion trade really took off in the 1830's thanks to the onion merchants known as 'Johnnies', who crossed the English channel to sell their onions door to door. This major festival celebrating the pink onion honours their memory over two days, and celebrates these onions which are still grown in the traditional way and remain the pride and joy of the local townspeople..

Further information :here

Fête des Filets Bleus à Concarneau
Fête folklorique
Created in 1905 to come to the aid of the local fishermen and their families during the sardine crisis, a traditional Breton folk festival which takes over the town over a few days: shows, sporting events (Breton games, traditional Breton wrestling), traditional dancers and musicians...
Contact : http://filetsbleus.free.fr/

Festival du Bout du Monde à Crozon
World music
A major festive and cultural event in Finistère, making Crozon an important location during the holiday season for world music. Discover new voices, different sounds, and original rhythms from lands far away .
Contact : www.festivalduboutdumonde.com

Mondial'Folk de Plozévet
World Music Festival
This festival takes place during a week, 800 artists from all over the world come together to introduce us to their culture, origins and music...
Contact : http://www.mondialfolk.org/

Festival des Gens du Moulin à Arzano
Theatre and music
Theatre, concerts, performances, exhibitions, dancing and refreshments... in an enchanting and pastoral site on the banks of the river of Scorff.
Contact : http://lesgensdumoulin.free.fr/

Semaines Musicales à Quimper
Classical Music
For two weeks in August the town of Quimper plays host to performers and ensembles of international renown for over ten concerts... A must for all music lovers!
Contact : http://www.semaines-musicales-quimper.org/
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Thursday, August 5, 2010

Chateau de Kerjean

Chateau de Kerjean
29440 Saint-Vougay
Tel. 02 98 69 93 69

A Château and fortress, symbol of the Renaissance in Brittany, the Château of Kerjean unveils to its visitors an eventful history which over the centuries has created a particular atmosphere. Set in a green and peaceful location, a park of 20 hectares surrounds the edifice, perfect for a quiet stroll. ...

Half-fortress, half-Renaissance mansion, the Chateau stands in the midst of a huge park. Towards the mid 16C Louis Barbier inherited a fortune from his uncle, a rich abbot of St-Math¬ieu, and decided to build a castle which would be the finest residence in Leon. In 1710 part of the building burned down, later the castle was sacked. However, the castle, which has belonged to the State since 1911, has since been restored except for the right wing. The buildings are guarded by a moat and ramparts; enter the main courtyard via the old drawbridge.


A main building with two wings and a large portico enclose the main courtyard, which is adorned with a fine Corinthian-columned Renaissance well. The dwelling house contains a museum of Breton art with fine 17C and 18C furnishings: box beds, chests, grain chests.

The kitchen, a vast room with a ceiling 6m/20ft high, has two monumental chimneys facing each other, one of which was used as the bread oven, and a large copperware collection.

On the courtyard’s other side is the chapel. Inside it is decorated with a wooden vault in the shape of a ship's keel and carved beams and purlins. The coach house wing, which once housed the stores, a forge and the servants' quarters, has been restored. There is a slide show on the history of Kerjean. A door leads to an alley supported on a gallery with eight arches, which give a good overall view of the main courtyard and the buildings around it.

The park includes French-style gardens and a charming Renaissance fountain consisting of a niche surrounded by four colonnettes, set into a little stone wall.

The noise of the spring, mingled with the warbling of the birds makes a pleasant background in which to meditate. On leaving, to the left of the cental avenue note the he dovecot, a stone tower 9m/29.5ft in diameter.

Every year, there are temporary exhibitions held, devoted to contemporary art in Spring, and the history of Brittany in summer. During July and August evening theatre performances are on offer.


2010 Exhibition : from the 26/03 to 07/11 : Brittany presents its cinema.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Port Launay


Location
Port Launay is located in a valley towards the center of Finistère. It is centrally located between Quimper to the south and Brest to the North (both about 20 minutes drive away). To the West, the Menez-Hom hills separate it from the Crozon peninsula and the Bay of Douarnenez which leads into the Atlantic Ocean.

What to expect
In the village you will find yachtsmen, walkers and other holidaymakers. There is a crêperie, a patisserie and you'll find free mooring for boats. You can rent mountain bikes, canoes, pédaloes or small boats in which you can to go the lock or check out neighbouring Chateaulin.

Within a couple of minutes walk downstream from the town square you'll find yourself on towpaths overhung by trees full of birds. You can visit the Parc des Poètes, the 17th century chapel of St Aubin, and see the view over the valley of the Aulne.

During the summer months there are many small village festivals, some quite unusual, like the popular Paella and Sea Chanting evening in mid-May. But if you're only going to see one, make sure you don’t miss the local celebrations during the third weekend in July, which come to a close with a parade of decorated floats on the river and a son-et-lumière with a fantastic firework display.
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Directions to Locmaria-Berrien


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Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Brittany - just like home, only better - The Irish Times - Sat, Jul 17, 2010

Being so like Ireland enhances the good vibe and sensual glories of Brittany – a place not quite French, not quite Celtic, but entirely its own, writes DANNY DENTON

IN MANY WAYS, Brittany is like Ireland through the looking glass. Walking the cobbled streets of the region’s towns, or passing along the coast, you get the impression you’ve been here before. You could be driving down to Kinsale, only on the wrong side of the road, with a sun high in the big sky betraying the illusion.

Still, the look of the people and the landscape are similar to what you know, the music faintly familiar. The traditional dance even reminds you of the Siege of Ennis. Of course, it’s not Ireland, but the feeling of being somewhere you know only enhances the good vibe and sensual glories of a place not quite French, not quite Celtic, but entirely its own.

In keeping with its status as a kingdom (the region only became a part of France in 1532), Brittany should be treated as its own country. A tour of different towns in the region is the best way to explore it.

Each walled city and seaside resort has its own delicacies and customs. You can see the sights via the area’s network of canals, roads and train lines. Alternatively, the more energetic visitor can undertake a cycling tour using Brittany’s beautiful “greenways”.

Aer Lingus will fly you from Dublin to Rennes, Brittany’s capital, in little over an hour, and the tour can begin. A large part of any visit is the food. Seafood is the speciality, and eating in Brittany is an incredible and educational experience.

To help you work up an appetite, Rennes offers tons of interesting sights – aside, that is, from the simple charm of its close, cobbled streets and angled timber houses. The weekend market is a tour of aromas;with a huge food market that suddenly seems to bloom into a flower market as you make your way through.

On Saturdays you’re likely to see an open-house auction at the town hall, couples dancing to American swing between the flower stalls, or children thoughtfully swapping mussels with each other before sampling the catch like young food critics.

Out from Rennes, your tour can follow a myriad of trajectories, all offering something unique.

On the coast, towns like Saint-Malo exude bonheur. On the cusp of the ocean, Saint-Malo’s ramparts were once guarded by a team of bullmastiffs. Luckily, it’s now easier to gain access to the granite archways and quiet gardens of this gorgeous medieval town. Everyone knows each other here, and the local artisans stock and promote each other’s produce. The chocolate guy praises the cider guy (cider being a speciality in Brittany); in turn, the cider guy implores you to visit the spice shop.

FROM EASTER TO Halloween the local diary is packed with festivals and events, and the gastronomic tour is educational and delicious enough to cheer up even the French football team.

There are several sidetracks you can take in Saint-Malo, and this is true of most of Brittany’s towns. Brittany is the birthplace of thalassotherapy, a range of saltwater spa treatments unique to the region. Families and couples can combine this option with the local golf courses and water sports schools.

If there is one place itching to be discovered in Brittany, it’s Île de Bréhat, a tiny archipelago off the coastal town of Paimpol. Here, you encounter something different. For a start, there are no cars, and the roads are akin to the small country lanes John McGahern loved so much. The only vehicle you’ll hear will be one of the compact tractors that farm various tracts of land, or transport supplies from the pier to the town hall (for distribution among the locals).

Adding to Île de Bréhat’s uniqueness is its geographical fortune. As a particularly flat island, it has a microclimate, meaning that it very rarely rains on the island. Here, you can discover meadows of rare plants as you walk (or cycle) lanes populated by eucalyptus, mimosa, and rare birds on seasonal stopovers.

Rambling the island, you’ll discover La Citadelle, a restored fort that houses a glass-art workshop and boutique. You’ll also walk the chaotic rock formations of the pink-blue headlands, where lighthouses and churches quietly watch the sea. On the way home you might stop in a farmer’s driveway and take a pot of jam or a bottle of cider from the table. A blackboard will tell you how much to leave in his post box in payment.

LATER, IN THE evening, you can enjoy dinner in Le Bourg, the tiny town centre, and fantasise about abandoning the hustle and farce of modern life for an existence in a place like this; about getting back to the simple enjoyment of the best the world has to offer.

And, at some point after that, you’ll return through the looking glass, to Ireland, and everywhere see signs that remind you, somehow, of Brittany.

Where to stay and where to eat

3 places to stay

Hôtel BelleVue, Le Port Clos, Île de Bréhat, 00-33-2-96200005 hotel-bellevue-brehat.fr. This quaint townhouse is on the road from the island’s main pier to Le Bourg. From the terrace you can take in views of the archipelago and the Brittany coastline. Doubles with half-board for €240 in high season.

Le Grand Hotel des Thermes, Grande Plage du Sillon, Saint-Malo, 00-33-2-99407575 thalassotherapie.com. Hotel and spa just outside the walls of Saint-Malo. The people behind this place pretty much invented the saltwater therapy industry. There’s even a “diet restaurant”. Doubles €116.

Accor Thalassa, 1 Ave du Château Hébert, Dinard, 00-33-2-99167810 accorhotels.com. Set on beautiful seaside grounds, the Accor Thalassa also offers spa treatments. Doubles from €160

3 places to eat

Le Café des Bains, 36 Rue St Georges, Rennes, 00-33-2-23203564. Cosy restaurant in the heart of Rennes. They’re friendly and easy-going here, and the blackboard menu is adaptable (and cheap). The monkfish crumble is not to be missed.

Chocolaterie Confiserie Galland, 4 Rue Broussais, Saint-Malo, 00-33-2-99409353. A must. Its proprietor was making bread one day when he accidentally mixed up his ingredients, using sugar instead of salt. The result was a new, and now famous, kind of butter cake and it is among the many incredible things to savour. If the owners are in, they’ll take you to the kitchen and show you how the stuff is made.
Le Cap Horn, Le Grand Hotel des Thermes, Saint-Malo, 00-33-2-99407575. One wall of the restaurant is all window, so the light of the sea and sky affect the atmosphere dramatically. The food is exquisite. Of the three set menus, the gourmet (at €39.60) is fantastic.

What to do
  • Food market Le Marché des Lices, every Saturday in Rennes, at Place des Lices.
  • Tour Île de Bréhat. Cycling the island and kayaking around the headlands is affordable and recommended.
  • Take a gastronomic tour of Saint-Malo, organised by the local tourist office.
  • Cruise Brittany’s canals. Emerald Star offers boating holidays (emeraldstar.ie).

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

L'Agapa Hôtel


L'Agapa Hôtel - Spa is located on the Rose Coast of Brittany, with stunning views overlooking the sea and the Seven Islands.

All of the guestrooms are equipped with TV and DVD player and free Wi-Fi internet access.

The Agapa Spa includes a fitness gym, steam bath, 40-square metre swimming pool, sauna and jacuzzi. The hotel's spa area is open every day from 07:30 to 21:00.

The Beluga, the hotel restaurant, serves regional cuisine made with local products.

Address: 12 Rue Bons Enfants, 22700 Perros-Guirec

Thursday, April 22, 2010

ROUTE ONE: HUELGOAT TO ST MICHEL DE BRASPARTS

Image via Wikipedia
Take the D 14 north to join the D769 at Berrien. At Le Plessis turn left along the D111 to Le Relecq. From Huelgoat the road climbs up to run through high open countryside, part moorland and part grazing land. The D111 is through woodland.

Le Relecq
Time seems to have stood still in this village; the only indication that tourists ever pass is the sign advertising the local potter. Driving between the pillars of an old gateway on the right-hand side of the road, you enter a large rustic square. On your left is a small L-shaped cluster of stone houses. Opposite, a couple of somewhat shabby, more substantial houses stand in delightfully natural gardens, and on your right is the church of the old Cistercian abbey.

Dating from the 12th C (although the facade is I8th century), the church has a dilapidated charm which is entirely in keeping with the rest of the village.

Continue on the D111. At Plouneour-Menez turn left on to the D785.

Le Relecq to Roc’h Trevezel

Roc'h TrevezelFor the most part the Montagnes d’Arree can only be described as impressively hilly; the Roc’h Trevesel, however, is definitely a mountain. Its jutting peaks, which rise out of a high moorland plateau, can be seen in the distance even before you reach Plouneour, although the nearby communications mast is likely to be the first thing that catches your eye. Not far beyond the D764-D785 crossroads is a sign-posted footpath to the Roc’h (there is no special car park, just pull in by the roadside). It is only a few minutes’ walk to the top, and the views from here are among the most memorable on the tour: to the west you can see as far as Brest; to the north the Baie de Lannion is visible, while to the south you can see the St-Michel mountain (your next stop) and beyond to the Montagnes Noires, Brittany’s other principal mountain chain. The view to the south-east, over the St-Michel reservoir, is unfortunately marred by the nuclear power plant buildings. A leisurely picnic will give you time to absorb it all; however, if you prefer not to carry your baguettes, cheese and vin de table quite so far, the next stop offers another agreeable picnic spot.

Roc’h Trevezel to St-Michel de Braspart
Continue on the D785, then either turn right to St-Rivoal along the 1 -D42, or, for a short detour to the Montagne St-Michel, keep on the D785, -past a small creperie, then turn right to St-Michel. A flight of steps from the car park leads to the tiny chapel of St Michel-de-Brasparts which crowns this great rounded mountain; the views from here are stunning, although not quite in the same class as those to be seen from Roc’h Trevezel.
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ROUTE TWO: HUELGOAT TO ST GILDAS

Not only is the lakeside village of Huelgoat the best start for exploring the Montagnes d’Arree, it is also almost the only place in the area that has much in the way of tourist facilities. Around its spacious main square and in the surrounding streets are four small hotels (the An Triskell, tel 98.99.71.85, is good value) and several restaurants.

The name Huelgoat means ‘high wood’, and the great forests surrounding the village offer plenty of opportunities for walks along woodland paths. North of the village, giant granite rocks lie hidden among the trees; one, known as ‘la Roche Tremblante’, pivots on its base if pushed correctly; other rocks have been weathered into interesting shapes. South and west, the walks include one along the River Argent to a plunging chasm, and another along the canal that was built in the 18th C to serve the silver mining industry. Before leaving, fill your tank - filling stations are scarce on back roads of both loops.

Huelgoat to Locmaria Berrien
Take the Carhaix-Plouguer road out of Huelgoat. This is a winding road which cuts a narrow corridor through the forest before entering a wide valley.

Auberge de la Truite
This traditionally furnished restaurant on the Huelgoat-Carhaix road is reckoned to serve the best food in the area. Specialities include lobster and, not surprisingly, truite de I’auberge. Mme le Guillous’s cosy restaurant & hostelry also has six bedrooms. Tel 98.99.73.05; closed mid Jan to Apr, Sun evening and Mon (except July and Aug) ; price band C.

Locmaria Berrien to Locarn
About 4 km beyond Poullaouen, take the left turn signposted Plounevezel; soon turn left and cross the D54, signposted Ste-Catherine.

At the junction with the D787 go straight across, signposted Treffrin. At the T-junction turn right along the D20A. Once you have crossed the D54 there is the first of many long views over the undulating Breton countryside. Because traditional farming methods are still employed here, hedgerows have not been bulldozed, nor trees uprooted or cut down; the patchwork pattern of small fields and clumps of woodland remains more or less as intimate and restful as it has been for hundreds of years. At the junction with the D2o, turn left to Locarn.

Locarn
A break from driving is in order after the invigorating descent through a leafy valley before the road rises up to reach the quiet hillside village of Locarn. The views over a tributary of the Hiere merit more than momentary contemplation; the church contains some fine stained glass; and the silver reliquary of St Hernin, the i6thC cross and 17thC chalice, which are kept in the presbytery, are well worth seeing.

From Locarn take the D20, signposted St-Nicodeme, turn left (the signpost to the Gorges faces away from you) then, after about 2 km, turn left once more.

Gorges du Corone
From the small parking area, a 15-minute walk through woodland, alongside a narrow river and past big granite outcrops, brings you to the spot where the river passes under a great pile of boulders in a series of small waterfalls. The path continues, but children (and adults, no doubt) will be happy enough to stop here to clamber over the rocks. On a hot day the shade of the forest and the sound of the river are a welcome tonic for those who are starting to feel weary. You need to search around for picnic places; alternatively, the Ty-Pikouz, a small, simple auberge, just along from the car park, is an adequate place to stop for a meal or a snack.

Gorges du Corone to St Gildas
Return along the short no through road to the Gorges, then turn left and follow the signs to St-Servais (there is one unsignposted T-junction where you should turn left). At St-Servais turn left (not signposted but opposite the church) and as you climb up out of the village take the left turn to Duault. In contrast to the route from the Gorges to St-Servais, the road follows a high ridge from which you can look out over great expanses of utterly rural countryside. At Duault bear right on to the DI1I; drive on for a short while then turn left along the D787. The DI I winds gently down to the main road and the Hiere valley.

Opposite a trout farm, turn right, signposted Carnouet and Chapelle St-Gildas.

St-Gildas
The chapel, which stands at the end of an unsignposted track lined by an avenue of trees, is visible from the road. Around the roof at the rear of the 16th C building are some fearsome grotesques (one of which is enjoyably crude). Opposite the main door to the chapel and across a stile, a 5-minute walk takes you to the top of a hill from which you can enjoy the most extensive views on this loop of the tour - winds permitting, this is an ideal place to reflect on the charm of the Breton countryside

St-Gildas to Huelgoat
Return along the tree-lined track and turn left. At the T junction turn right, then turn left at the crossroads, signposted Morlaix. At the junction just past Quefforc’h, follow the signs to Huelgoat. The scenery varies almost as much as the road twists and turns; eventually you rejoin the road which leads through the dark forest back to Huelgoat.
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Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Spotlight on Accommodation

Hotel La Vinotiêre, Le Conquet

Take a picturesque coastal setting, a 16th-century building and add exquisite decor, contemporary comforts and attentive service: you have La Vinotiere, one of Finistére’s most charming hotels.

Nestling in Le Conquet, this harbour location is perfect to explore Brest and the western coast, and the famous islands of Ouessant and Molene.

La Vinotiere is named after a lighthouse, and the historical theme continues through winding stone staircases, fireplaces and hidden alcoves.

The ten beautifully renovated hotel rooms juxtapose contemporary materials with stonemasonry and timber. All rooms offer flat screen TV, WiFi access, mini-bar, tea and coffee plus hairdryer, while guests on the second floor can also benefit from the jacuzzi. A final surprise is its affordability: family rooms for parents and two children start at just 105€ -incredible value.

If you really can’t fit in an overnight stay this time, at least enjoy the tearoom with homemade cakes and speciality teas. You’ll be sure to return!

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 89 17 79 WEBSITE : www.lavinotiere.fr

Hotel La Villa Tri Men, Sainte Marine

Selected for Hotels de charme and the Chateaux & Hotels collection, the Villa Tri Men is one of the most gracious, elegant buildings you could hope to stay in. Whether you’re relaxing in one of the subtle and tastefully appointed bedrooms, or sipping a cool drink on the seaview sundeck, you’re sure to unwind at the Villa Tri Men.

The hotel’s renowned restaurant serves classic and innovative dishes that make the most of the fresh local produce and the generous windows ensure you enjoy the panorama of glittering sea and the yachts of Benodet harbour.

With rooms from 115€ to 270€, guest facilities include car-parking, WiFi access, satellite TV a library and even a conference room, not to mention easy access to the sea and splendid gardens. Satisfied guests will testify: it’s a luxurious coastal retreat from everyday life.

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 51 94 94

WEBSITE: www.trimen.fr

Hotel Gradlon Quimper

Breton legend tells of King GradIon who fled to Quimper after his island Kingdom sank off the western coast. Here, then, is a hotel fit for a king with timeless dedication to quality plus modern bonuses such as free WiFi, flatscreen TVs and room service. Its credits include Hotels de charme et de caractère and Relais du silence.

Nestling in the heart of picturesque Quimper, The Hotel GradIon is walking distance from the train station as well as the Cathedral and historic old quarters yet the bustling city is forgotten amidst the plush surroundings and peaceful inner courtyard.

Rooms are from 79€ to 175€ for a family suite and the decor achieves ‘classic chic’ balancing taste with comfort. A gem in a great, central location.

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 95 04 39

WEBSITE: http://www.hotel-gradlon.fr/

Hotel Les Sables Blancs, Concarneau

This distinctive hotel has the look of an ocean liner and has understandably been selected for the collections of Hotel de charme et de character, Châteaux et hotels and Les pieds dans l’eau.

It dominates the beach beyond the walled town of Concarneau, one of France’s most captivating old towns.

Guests are impressed by its outstanding location, seaview balconies and restaurant, ‘Le Nautile’. As well as the modern convenience of free WiFi access, lift and mini-bar, the generous rooms of Les Sables Blancs have minimalist decor and are flooded with light from a beach that is so close you can hear the waves when you wake.

With rooms from 105€ to 370€ this is a cut above the norm and it shows: there are few hotels that can boast a better access to the beach or better views. Les Sables Blancs will offer you an unforgettable seaside stay in South Finistere.

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 50 10 12

WEBSITE: www.hotel-les-sables-blancs.com


Hotel Ar Men Du, Nevez

Here is a hotel in which each room enjoys a seaview. Tucked away in south Finistere’s conservation area but in easy reach of the motorway, Nevez is a coastal delight, dreamy and peaceful with an endless horizon.
The Hotel Ar Men Du is significantly classed as a Hotel de charme plus Relais du Silence: a true retreat. Its panoramic restaurant is duly acclaimed for its top-quality seafood dishes, while the 14 rooms (from 80 to 185€ ) are welcoming, cosy and classy, all enjoying the particular light that comes from wide sea views.

Just 9 km from the artistic town of Pont Aven and the sailing heaven of the southern coast, the Hotel Ar Men Du feels like a paradise you’ve personally discovered, where comfort and tranquillity reign supreme.


TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 79 35 79  WEBSITE: www.men-du.com


Chambres d’hôte Le Manoir de Lesplouênan, Ploukan

Only in France could you opt for bed and breakfast and find yourself in a 16th century manor house with a chapel, fountain and pond. The Manoir de Lesplouenan is perfectly placed for Roscoff and is steeped in architectural features and folk legend.

Each room and en-suite bathroom is individually decorated to a theme, while the family room even has an appealing Mezzanine level. The ancient stonework and timber breakfast table contrast against the modern decor that keeps comfort in mind.

There is a unique charm to this setting; rooms start at 70€ but even the 4-person family suite is just 115€, fantastic value for playing Lord of the Manor!

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 29 65 26

WEBSITE: www.manoir-lesplouenan.com


Chambres d’hôtes Evel er Ger, Locquirec

If you’re looking for an authentic bed and breakfast, look no further than Monsieur Fleuriot’s Chambres d’hôte.

Well-situated in Evel er Ger near Locquirec, it’s ideal for exploring sandy beaches or sparkling bays and just a quick drive to historic Morlaix.

The detached seaview house offers 5 guestrooms, each with en-suite bathroom facilities, TV DVD player and cable channels, internet access and even a games room for children. But the star attraction is the private pool with sauna, jacuzzi and even a fitness room, so you can feel truly pampered!

Each room is tastefully decorated with views over Locquirec and the surrounding areas, worthy of its high ratings from Chevacances and chambres d’hôtes de charme. Expect a very warm welcome and sumptuous surroundings.

Some more HIGHLIGHTS

If you’re in North Finistere, there are wonderful Chevacances properties including the welcoming guesthouse run by Monsieur and Madame Le Moat in Plouezoc’h and the elegant grandeur of the Manoir Coat Amour, both close to Morlaix. Or, in the southeast corner of Finistere, Nivinen is a stone longere in Arzano offering luxury bedrooms, private pool and relaxation.

For an unforgettable gite, stay at Nid d’Iroise at Lanildut (on the coast west of Brest), which offers granite cottage rooms, wooden cabins and a tree house, or the equally unusual Quille en l’Air and Caloge in Crozon, which includes a gite with a boat-hull roof!

And a mention to...

With such a range of great hotels, it’s hard to choose highlights, but these are certainly worth a mention : L’Albatros in Morlaix has its own spa and pool, Les Tamaris in Roscoff has modern comfort and seaviews while the unique Vent d’Iroise at Plougonvelin is a collection of 24 rooms spread across 7 smaller houses, all with amazing views across cornfields and the coast.

To the south, Hotel le Roi Gradlon in Audierne is a seafront hotel overlooking Ile de Sein, and in Pont-Aven, La Chaumiere de Roz Aven is one of the oldest buildings in this city of painters
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Le Conquet, Ouessant and Molene

Etoile Molène à Saint-MaloImage by Haute Bretagne via Flickr
Le Conquet


LE CONQUET, the southernmost of the abers resorts, at the far western tip Brittany 24km beyond Brest, makes the best holiday base of all. A wonderful place - scarcely developed, it is flanked by a long beach of clean white sand, protected from the winds by the narrow spit of the Kermorvan peninsula, and has ferry access to the islands of Ouessant and Molene. It is very much a working fishing village, the grey-stone houses leading down to the stone jetties of a cramped harbour — which occasionally floods, to the intense amusement of the locals. the waves washing over the cars left by tourists making the trip to Ouessant.

The coast around Le Conquet is low-lying, not the rocky confrontation with a savage sea that one might expect, and Kermorvan, across the estuary, seems to glide into the sea — its shallow cliffs are topped by a strip of turf that looks as if you could peel it right off. Apart from the lighthouse at the end, the peninsula is just grassland bare of buildings and a lovely place to walk in the evening across the footbridge from Le Conquet.

The most exciting trips out from Le Conquet are to the islands — detailed in the box opposite. As a variation, though, a good walk 5km south brings you to the lighthouse at Pointe St-Mathieu, looking out to the islands from its site among the ruins of the Benedictine Abbaye de St-Mathieu. A small exhibition (April & May Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30—6.30pm; June & Sept daily 2.30—6.30pm; July & Aug daily 11 am—7pm; Oct & Nov Wed, Sat & Sun 2—6pm; IOF/€1.52) explains the abbey’s history, including the legend that it holds the skull of St Matthew brought here from Ethiopia by local seafarers.

Practicalities

The Relais du Vieux Port, quai Drellac (02.98.89.15.91;closed Jan), offers a handful of inexpensive but attractive rooms right by the jetty in Le Conquet, and has a simple creperie downstairs. Nearby, the larger Pointe Ste Barbe (02.98.89.00.26)—CD; closed Mon out of season & mid-Nov to mid-Dec) offers amazing sea views to guests in its more expensive rooms, and has a great restaurant, where menus start at 100F/€15.24. There are also two well-equipped two-star campsites, Le Theven (02.98.89.06.90; closed Oct—March) and Quere (02.98.89.11.71; closed mid-Sept to mid June). Market day in Le Conquet is Tuesday.

The Hostellerie de la Pointe St-Mathieu, housed in a thirteenth-century stone structure opposite the abbey entrance at Pointe St-Mathieu ($02.98.89.00.19; (O; closed Sun evening in low season), is a top-quality restaurant that has added a modern wing of tasteful ocean-view rooms.

The islands of Ouessant and Molene

The island of Ouessant, Ushant in English — and first described by the geographer Pytheas as early as 325 BC, under the name of Uxisama — lies 30km northwest of Le Conquet. Standing at the outermost end of a chain of smaller islands and half-submerged granite rocks its lighthouse at Creac’h (said to be the strongest in the world) is regarded as the entrance to the English Channel. Most of the archipel¬ago is uninhabited, save perhaps, like Beniguet, for a few rabbits, but Molene, midway, has a village and can be visited. Both Molene and Ouessant are served by at least one ferry each day from Le Conquet and Brest; however, it is not practicable to visit more than one in a single day. Note that the ferries can be very crowded in summer, and it’s well worth booking your tickets in advance if at all possible.

Getting to Ouessant and Molene

Penn Ar Bed (02.98.80.80.80, www.penn-ar-bed.fr) sail to Ouessant and Molene all year, with up to five daily departures from Le Conquet (first sailing at 8am daily in summer; return fare adult 157F/€23.94, under-17s 94F/€14.33), and one daily at 8.30am from Brest (return fare adult 186F/€28.35, under-17s 112F/€17.07). They also depart from Camaret at 8.45am on Wednesday from May until mid-July, and Monday to Saturday at 8.45am from mid-July until the end of August (return fare adult 17OF/€25.92, under-17s 100F/€15.24).

Finist’Mer operate high-speed ferries to Ouessant in summer only, from Camaret (02.98.27.88.44; return fare adult 160F/€24.39, under-17s 95F/€14.48), Le Conquet (x02.98.89.16.61; adult 148F/€22.56, under-17s 84F/€12.81) and Lanildut, 25km northwest of Brest (x02.98.04.40.72; adult 155F/€23.63, under-17s 90F/€13.72). Bikes cost 65–70F/€9.91–10.67 extra. In June and September, they offer a daily departure from Camaret at 8.30am, calling at Le Conquet at 9.30am, another departure from Le Conquet at 5pm, and an extra departure from Le Conquet at 11am on Saturday. In July and August, they offer a morning departure from Camaret at 9.30am, plus up to seven ferries daily from Le Conquet and an additional service from Lanildut, departing at 9.20am daily and taking just half an hour to reach Ouessant. Certain summer sailings call in at Molene as well.

In addition, you can fly to Ouessant with Finist’Air (02.98.84.64.87). The fifteen-minute flights leave Brest daily at 8.30am and 5pm in summer, 8.30am and 4.45pm in winter. The adult single fare is 340F/€51.84 (440F/€67.08 return), under-13s travel half-price, and groups of three or more adults go for 270F/€41.16 each.

Ouessant

The ride to OUESSANT is generally a tranquil affair – though the ferry has to pick its way from buoy to buoy, through a sea which is liable suddenly to blow up and become too dangerous to navigate. There have been many wrecks among the reefs, most famously the Drummond Castle which foundered as the finale to a con¬cert celebrating the end of its voyage from Cape Town to England in June 1896. For all its storms, though, the climate is mild — Ouessant even records the high¬est mean temperatures in France in January and February.

You arrive on Ouessant at the modern harbour in the ominous-sounding Baie du Stiff. There are a scattering of houses here, and dotted about the island, but the only town (with the only hotels and restaurants) is 4km distant at LAMPAUL. Everybody from the boat heads there, either by the bus that meets each arriving ferry, on bicycles rented for about 60F/€9.15 per day from one of the many wait¬ing entrepreneurs, or in a long walking procession that straggles along the one road. Bicycle rental is the most convenient option, as the island is really too big to explore on foot.

As well as its more mundane facilities, Lampaul has Ouessant’s best beaches sprawled around its bay. There are few specific sights, and the whole place quickly becomes very familiar. But the town cemetery is worth visiting, with its war memo¬rial listing all the ships in which the townsfolk were lost, and its graves of unknown sailors washed ashore. A unique Ouessant tradition is also on show in the cemetery chapel – an array of wax proella crosses, which were used during the funerals of those islanders who never returned from the sea, to symbolize their absent remains.

At NIOU, 1km northwest, the Maison du Niou is actually two houses, one of which is a museum of island history, and the other is a reconstruction of a tradi¬tional island house, complete with two massive “box-beds”, one for the parents and the other for the children (April Tues–Sun 2-6.30pm; May to mid-July & Sept daily 10.30am–6.30pm; mid-July to Aug daily 10.30am–6.30pm & 9–11,pm: Oct–March Tues–Sun 2–4pm; 25F/€3.81). Officially, it forms half of the Eco-Musee d’Ouessant, in combination with the Creac’h lighthouse, another kilo-metre northwest (same hours; same ticket). This contains a small museum about lighthouses, and makes a good point from which to set out along the barren and exposed rocks of the north coast. Particularly in September and other times of migration, it’s a remarkable spot for bird-watching; puffins, storm petrels and cor¬morants can all be seen. The star-shaped formations of crumbling walls are not extraterrestrial relics, but built so that the sheep – peculiarly tame here – can shelter from the strong winds.

Practicalities

General information on Ouessant is available from the tourist office in the main square in Lampaul (April–Aug Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5pm, Sun 9.30am-12.30pm; Sept-March Mon-Sat 9.45am-noon & 2-4pm, Sun loam-noon; 02.98.48.85.83).

Lampaul boasts its own brand-new little hostel, La Croix Rouge (02.98.48.84.53), where a dorm bed plus breakfast costs 70F/€10.67. Also in Lampaul, the adjacent hotels Ocean (02.98.48.80.03;) and Fromveur (02.98.48.81.30) both offer a fairly basic standard of accommodation; the Fromveur specializes in traditional island cooking, which consists of attempting to render seaweed and mutton as palatable as possible, while the Ocean has a side-line in organizing musical evenings. The Roch Ar Mor, just down the street (02.98.48.80.19; 0; closed Jan-March), is a marginally more attractive alternative. There is a small official campsite, the Penn ar Bed (02.98.48.84.65; closed Oct March). You could, in fact, camp almost anywhere on the island, making arrangements with the nearest farmhouse (which may well let out rooms, too).

All the hotel restaurants serve menus for under 100F/€15.24, but if you just come for a day it’s a good idea to buy a picnic before you set out - the Lampaul shops have limited and rather pricey supplies.

Molene

MOLENE is quite well populated for a sparse strip of sand. The port itself is better protected than that of Ouessant, and so there are more fishermen based here. The island’s inhabitants derive their income from seaweed collection and drying - and to an extent from crabbing and crayfish, which they gather on foot, canoe and even tractor at low tide. The tides are more than usually dramatic, halving or doubling the island’s territory at a stroke. Hence the origin of the name Molene, which comes from the Breton for “the bald isle”.

As for sights, there is even less of tangible note than on Ouessant. Walking the rocks and the coast is the basic activity. Once again, though, the island cemetery is poignant and interesting, redolent of small community life in its concentration of babies’ graves from a typhoid epidemic in the nineteenth century; they are marked by silver crosses, repainted each November 1st. Equally small-time is the island’s main anecdote, told to anyone drinking an evening away, of the evening in 1967 when the whole population gathered to watch the oil tanker Torrey Canyon floundering offshore in the passage de Fromveur.

Practicalities

Few visitors do more than look around for an afternoon’s excursion from Le Conquet, but it’s quite possible to stay on Molene and to enjoy it. There are rooms - very chilly in winter - at Kastell An Doal (02.98.07.39.11; 40; closed Jan), one of the old buildings by the port, and it’s also possible to arrange to stay in a private house (02.98.07.39.05 for details).


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Pont-Aven

PONT-AVEN, 14km east of Concarneau and just inland from the tip of the Aven estuary, is a small port packed with tourists and art galleries. This was where Gauguin came to paint in the 1880s, before he left for Tahiti in search of a South Seas idyll. By all accounts Gauguin was a rude and arrogant man who lorded it over the local population (who were already well used to posing in “peasant attire” for visiting artists). As a painter and printmaker, however, he produced some of his finest work in Pont-Aven, and his influence was such that the Pont-Aven School of fellow artists developed here. He spent some years working closely with these – the best known of whom was Emile Bernard – and they in turn helped to revitalize his own approach.

For all the local hype, however, the town has no permanent collection of Gauguin’s work. The Musée Municipal (daily: mid-Feb to mid-June & mid-Sept to Dec l0am -12.30pm & 2-6pm; mid-June to mid-Sept l0am-7pm; 27F/€4.12) in the Mairie holds changing exhibitions of the numerous members of the school, and other artists active in Brittany during the same period, but you can’t count on paintings by the man himself. You will however find an interesting account of the many Irish painters who were inspired by and worked in the town


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