ROUTE ONE: HUELGOAT TO ST MICHEL DE BRASPARTS

Image via Wikipedia

Take the D 14 north to join the D769 at Berrien. At Le Plessis turn left along the D111 to Le Relecq. From Huelgoat the road climbs up to run through high open countryside, part moorland and part grazing land. The D111 is through woodland.

Le Relecq

Time seems to have stood still in this village; the only indication that tourists ever pass is the sign advertising the local potter. Driving between the pillars of an old gateway on the right-hand side of the road, you enter a large rustic square. On your left is a small L-shaped cluster of stone houses. Opposite, a couple of somewhat shabby, more substantial houses stand in delightfully natural gardens, and on your right is the church of the old Cistercian abbey.

Dating from the 12th C (although the facade is I8th century), the church has a dilapidated charm which is entirely in keeping with the rest of the village.

Continue on the D111. At Plouneour-Menez turn left on to the D785.

Le Relecq to Roc’h Trevezel

For the most part the Montagnes d’Arree can only be described as impressively hilly; the Roc’h Trevesel, however, is definitely a mountain. Its jutting peaks, which rise out of a high moorland plateau, can be seen in the distance even before you reach Plouneour, although the nearby communications mast is likely to be the first thing that catches your eye. Not far beyond the D764-D785 crossroads is a sign-posted footpath to the Roc’h (there is no special car park, just pull in by the roadside). It is only a few minutes’ walk to the top, and the views from here are among the most memorable on the tour: to the west you can see as far as Brest; to the north the Baie de Lannion is visible, while to the south you can see the St-Michel mountain (your next stop) and beyond to the Montagnes Noires, Brittany’s other principal mountain chain. The view to the south-east, over the St-Michel reservoir, is unfortunately marred by the nuclear power plant buildings. A leisurely picnic will give you time to absorb it all; however, if you prefer not to carry your baguettes, cheese and vin de table quite so far, the next stop offers another agreeable picnic spot.

Roc’h Trevezel to St-Michel de Braspart
Continue on the D785, then either turn right to St-Rivoal along the 1 -D42, or, for a short detour to the Montagne St-Michel, keep on the D785, -past a small creperie, then turn right to St-Michel. A flight of steps from the car park leads to the tiny chapel of St Michel-de-Brasparts which crowns this great rounded mountain; the views from here are stunning, although not quite in the same class as those to be seen from Roc’h Trevezel.

ROUTE TWO: HUELGOAT TO ST GILDAS

Not only is the lakeside village of Huelgoat the best start for exploring the Montagnes d’Arree, it is also almost the only place in the area that has much in the way of tourist facilities. Around its spacious main square and in the surrounding streets are four small hotels (the An Triskell, tel 98.99.71.85, is good value) and several restaurants.

The name Huelgoat means ‘high wood’, and the great forests surrounding the village offer plenty of opportunities for walks along woodland paths. North of the village, giant granite rocks lie hidden among the trees; one, known as ‘la Roche Tremblante’, pivots on its base if pushed correctly; other rocks have been weathered into interesting shapes. South and west, the walks include one along the River Argent to a plunging chasm, and another along the canal that was built in the 18th C to serve the silver mining industry. Before leaving, fill your tank - filling stations are scarce on back roads of both loops.

Huelgoat to Locmaria Berrien
Take the Carhaix-Plouguer road out of Huelgoat. This is a winding road which cuts a narrow corridor through the forest before entering a wide valley.

Auberge de la Truite
This traditionally furnished restaurant on the Huelgoat-Carhaix road is reckoned to serve the best food in the area. Specialities include lobster and, not surprisingly, truite de I’auberge. Mme le Guillous’s cosy restaurant & hostelry also has six bedrooms. Tel 98.99.73.05; closed mid Jan to Apr, Sun evening and Mon (except July and Aug) ; price band C.

Locmaria Berrien to Locarn
About 4 km beyond Poullaouen, take the left turn signposted Plounevezel; soon turn left and cross the D54, signposted Ste-Catherine.

At the junction with the D787 go straight across, signposted Treffrin. At the T-junction turn right along the D20A. Once you have crossed the D54 there is the first of many long views over the undulating Breton countryside. Because traditional farming methods are still employed here, hedgerows have not been bulldozed, nor trees uprooted or cut down; the patchwork pattern of small fields and clumps of woodland remains more or less as intimate and restful as it has been for hundreds of years. At the junction with the D2o, turn left to Locarn.

Locarn
A break from driving is in order after the invigorating descent through a leafy valley before the road rises up to reach the quiet hillside village of Locarn. The views over a tributary of the Hiere merit more than momentary contemplation; the church contains some fine stained glass; and the silver reliquary of St Hernin, the i6thC cross and 17thC chalice, which are kept in the presbytery, are well worth seeing.

From Locarn take the D20, signposted St-Nicodeme, turn left (the signpost to the Gorges faces away from you) then, after about 2 km, turn left once more.

Gorges du Corone

From the small parking area, a 15-minute walk through woodland, alongside a narrow river and past big granite outcrops, brings you to the spot where the river passes under a great pile of boulders in a series of small waterfalls. The path continues, but children (and adults, no doubt) will be happy enough to stop here to clamber over the rocks. On a hot day the shade of the forest and the sound of the river are a welcome tonic for those who are starting to feel weary. You need to search around for picnic places; alternatively, the Ty-Pikouz, a small, simple auberge, just along from the car park, is an adequate place to stop for a meal or a snack.

Gorges du Corone to St Gildas
Return along the short no through road to the Gorges, then turn left and follow the signs to St-Servais (there is one unsignposted T-junction where you should turn left). At St-Servais turn left (not signposted but opposite the church) and as you climb up out of the village take the left turn to Duault. In contrast to the route from the Gorges to St-Servais, the road follows a high ridge from which you can look out over great expanses of utterly rural countryside. At Duault bear right on to the DI1I; drive on for a short while then turn left along the D787. The DI I winds gently down to the main road and the Hiere valley.

Opposite a trout farm, turn right, signposted Carnouet and Chapelle St-Gildas.

St-Gildas
The chapel, which stands at the end of an unsignposted track lined by an avenue of trees, is visible from the road. Around the roof at the rear of the 16th C building are some fearsome grotesques (one of which is enjoyably crude). Opposite the main door to the chapel and across a stile, a 5-minute walk takes you to the top of a hill from which you can enjoy the most extensive views on this loop of the tour - winds permitting, this is an ideal place to reflect on the charm of the Breton countryside

St-Gildas to Huelgoat
Return along the tree-lined track and turn left. At the T junction turn right, then turn left at the crossroads, signposted Morlaix. At the junction just past Quefforc’h, follow the signs to Huelgoat. The scenery varies almost as much as the road twists and turns; eventually you rejoin the road which leads through the dark forest back to Huelgoat.

Spotlight on Accommodation

Hotel La Vinotiêre, Le Conquet

Take a picturesque coastal setting, a 16th-century building and add exquisite decor, contemporary comforts and attentive service: you have La Vinotiere, one of Finistére’s most charming hotels.

Nestling in Le Conquet, this harbour location is perfect to explore Brest and the western coast, and the famous islands of Ouessant and Molene.

La Vinotiere is named after a lighthouse, and the historical theme continues through winding stone staircases, fireplaces and hidden alcoves.

The ten beautifully renovated hotel rooms juxtapose contemporary materials with stonemasonry and timber. All rooms offer flat screen TV, WiFi access, mini-bar, tea and coffee plus hairdryer, while guests on the second floor can also benefit from the jacuzzi. A final surprise is its affordability: family rooms for parents and two children start at just 105€ -incredible value.

If you really can’t fit in an overnight stay this time, at least enjoy the tearoom with homemade cakes and speciality teas. You’ll be sure to return!

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 89 17 79 WEBSITE : www.lavinotiere.fr

Hotel La Villa Tri Men, Sainte Marine

Selected for Hotels de charme and the Chateaux & Hotels collection, the Villa Tri Men is one of the most gracious, elegant buildings you could hope to stay in. Whether you’re relaxing in one of the subtle and tastefully appointed bedrooms, or sipping a cool drink on the seaview sundeck, you’re sure to unwind at the Villa Tri Men.

The hotel’s renowned restaurant serves classic and innovative dishes that make the most of the fresh local produce and the generous windows ensure you enjoy the panorama of glittering sea and the yachts of Benodet harbour.

With rooms from 115€ to 270€, guest facilities include car-parking, WiFi access, satellite TV a library and even a conference room, not to mention easy access to the sea and splendid gardens. Satisfied guests will testify: it’s a luxurious coastal retreat from everyday life.

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 51 94 94

WEBSITE: www.trimen.fr

Hotel Gradlon Quimper

Breton legend tells of King GradIon who fled to Quimper after his island Kingdom sank off the western coast. Here, then, is a hotel fit for a king with timeless dedication to quality plus modern bonuses such as free WiFi, flatscreen TVs and room service. Its credits include Hotels de charme et de caractère and Relais du silence.

Nestling in the heart of picturesque Quimper, The Hotel GradIon is walking distance from the train station as well as the Cathedral and historic old quarters yet the bustling city is forgotten amidst the plush surroundings and peaceful inner courtyard.

Rooms are from 79€ to 175€ for a family suite and the decor achieves ‘classic chic’ balancing taste with comfort. A gem in a great, central location.

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 95 04 39

WEBSITE: http://www.hotel-gradlon.fr/

Hotel Les Sables Blancs, Concarneau

This distinctive hotel has the look of an ocean liner and has understandably been selected for the collections of Hotel de charme et de character, Châteaux et hotels and Les pieds dans l’eau.

It dominates the beach beyond the walled town of Concarneau, one of France’s most captivating old towns.

Guests are impressed by its outstanding location, seaview balconies and restaurant, ‘Le Nautile’. As well as the modern convenience of free WiFi access, lift and mini-bar, the generous rooms of Les Sables Blancs have minimalist decor and are flooded with light from a beach that is so close you can hear the waves when you wake.

With rooms from 105€ to 370€ this is a cut above the norm and it shows: there are few hotels that can boast a better access to the beach or better views. Les Sables Blancs will offer you an unforgettable seaside stay in South Finistere.

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 50 10 12

WEBSITE: www.hotel-les-sables-blancs.com


Hotel Ar Men Du, Nevez

Here is a hotel in which each room enjoys a seaview. Tucked away in south Finistere’s conservation area but in easy reach of the motorway, Nevez is a coastal delight, dreamy and peaceful with an endless horizon.
The Hotel Ar Men Du is significantly classed as a Hotel de charme plus Relais du Silence: a true retreat. Its panoramic restaurant is duly acclaimed for its top-quality seafood dishes, while the 14 rooms (from 80 to 185€ ) are welcoming, cosy and classy, all enjoying the particular light that comes from wide sea views.

Just 9 km from the artistic town of Pont Aven and the sailing heaven of the southern coast, the Hotel Ar Men Du feels like a paradise you’ve personally discovered, where comfort and tranquillity reign supreme.


TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 79 35 79  WEBSITE: www.men-du.com


Chambres d’hôte Le Manoir de Lesplouênan, Ploukan

Only in France could you opt for bed and breakfast and find yourself in a 16th century manor house with a chapel, fountain and pond. The Manoir de Lesplouenan is perfectly placed for Roscoff and is steeped in architectural features and folk legend.

Each room and en-suite bathroom is individually decorated to a theme, while the family room even has an appealing Mezzanine level. The ancient stonework and timber breakfast table contrast against the modern decor that keeps comfort in mind.

There is a unique charm to this setting; rooms start at 70€ but even the 4-person family suite is just 115€, fantastic value for playing Lord of the Manor!

TEL: 00 33 (0) 298 29 65 26

WEBSITE: www.manoir-lesplouenan.com


Chambres d’hôtes Evel er Ger, Locquirec

If you’re looking for an authentic bed and breakfast, look no further than Monsieur Fleuriot’s Chambres d’hôte.

Well-situated in Evel er Ger near Locquirec, it’s ideal for exploring sandy beaches or sparkling bays and just a quick drive to historic Morlaix.

The detached seaview house offers 5 guestrooms, each with en-suite bathroom facilities, TV DVD player and cable channels, internet access and even a games room for children. But the star attraction is the private pool with sauna, jacuzzi and even a fitness room, so you can feel truly pampered!

Each room is tastefully decorated with views over Locquirec and the surrounding areas, worthy of its high ratings from Chevacances and chambres d’hôtes de charme. Expect a very warm welcome and sumptuous surroundings.

Some more HIGHLIGHTS

If you’re in North Finistere, there are wonderful Chevacances properties including the welcoming guesthouse run by Monsieur and Madame Le Moat in Plouezoc’h and the elegant grandeur of the Manoir Coat Amour, both close to Morlaix. Or, in the southeast corner of Finistere, Nivinen is a stone longere in Arzano offering luxury bedrooms, private pool and relaxation.

For an unforgettable gite, stay at Nid d’Iroise at Lanildut (on the coast west of Brest), which offers granite cottage rooms, wooden cabins and a tree house, or the equally unusual Quille en l’Air and Caloge in Crozon, which includes a gite with a boat-hull roof!

And a mention to...

With such a range of great hotels, it’s hard to choose highlights, but these are certainly worth a mention : L’Albatros in Morlaix has its own spa and pool, Les Tamaris in Roscoff has modern comfort and seaviews while the unique Vent d’Iroise at Plougonvelin is a collection of 24 rooms spread across 7 smaller houses, all with amazing views across cornfields and the coast.

To the south, Hotel le Roi Gradlon in Audierne is a seafront hotel overlooking Ile de Sein, and in Pont-Aven, La Chaumiere de Roz Aven is one of the oldest buildings in this city of painters

Le Conquet, Ouessant and Molene

Image by Haute Bretagne via Flickr

Le Conquet


LE CONQUET, the southernmost of the abers resorts, at the far western tip Brittany 24km beyond Brest, makes the best holiday base of all. A wonderful place - scarcely developed, it is flanked by a long beach of clean white sand, protected from the winds by the narrow spit of the Kermorvan peninsula, and has ferry access to the islands of Ouessant and Molene. It is very much a working fishing village, the grey-stone houses leading down to the stone jetties of a cramped harbour — which occasionally floods, to the intense amusement of the locals. the waves washing over the cars left by tourists making the trip to Ouessant.

The coast around Le Conquet is low-lying, not the rocky confrontation with a savage sea that one might expect, and Kermorvan, across the estuary, seems to glide into the sea — its shallow cliffs are topped by a strip of turf that looks as if you could peel it right off. Apart from the lighthouse at the end, the peninsula is just grassland bare of buildings and a lovely place to walk in the evening across the footbridge from Le Conquet.

The most exciting trips out from Le Conquet are to the islands — detailed in the box opposite. As a variation, though, a good walk 5km south brings you to the lighthouse at Pointe St-Mathieu, looking out to the islands from its site among the ruins of the Benedictine Abbaye de St-Mathieu. A small exhibition (April & May Wed, Sat & Sun 2.30—6.30pm; June & Sept daily 2.30—6.30pm; July & Aug daily 11 am—7pm; Oct & Nov Wed, Sat & Sun 2—6pm; IOF/€1.52) explains the abbey’s history, including the legend that it holds the skull of St Matthew brought here from Ethiopia by local seafarers.

Practicalities

The Relais du Vieux Port, quai Drellac (02.98.89.15.91;closed Jan), offers a handful of inexpensive but attractive rooms right by the jetty in Le Conquet, and has a simple creperie downstairs. Nearby, the larger Pointe Ste Barbe (02.98.89.00.26)—CD; closed Mon out of season & mid-Nov to mid-Dec) offers amazing sea views to guests in its more expensive rooms, and has a great restaurant, where menus start at 100F/€15.24. There are also two well-equipped two-star campsites, Le Theven (02.98.89.06.90; closed Oct—March) and Quere (02.98.89.11.71; closed mid-Sept to mid June). Market day in Le Conquet is Tuesday.

The Hostellerie de la Pointe St-Mathieu, housed in a thirteenth-century stone structure opposite the abbey entrance at Pointe St-Mathieu ($02.98.89.00.19; (O; closed Sun evening in low season), is a top-quality restaurant that has added a modern wing of tasteful ocean-view rooms.

The islands of Ouessant and Molene

The island of Ouessant, Ushant in English — and first described by the geographer Pytheas as early as 325 BC, under the name of Uxisama — lies 30km northwest of Le Conquet. Standing at the outermost end of a chain of smaller islands and half-submerged granite rocks its lighthouse at Creac’h (said to be the strongest in the world) is regarded as the entrance to the English Channel. Most of the archipel¬ago is uninhabited, save perhaps, like Beniguet, for a few rabbits, but Molene, midway, has a village and can be visited. Both Molene and Ouessant are served by at least one ferry each day from Le Conquet and Brest; however, it is not practicable to visit more than one in a single day. Note that the ferries can be very crowded in summer, and it’s well worth booking your tickets in advance if at all possible.

Getting to Ouessant and Molene

Penn Ar Bed (02.98.80.80.80, www.penn-ar-bed.fr) sail to Ouessant and Molene all year, with up to five daily departures from Le Conquet (first sailing at 8am daily in summer; return fare adult 157F/€23.94, under-17s 94F/€14.33), and one daily at 8.30am from Brest (return fare adult 186F/€28.35, under-17s 112F/€17.07). They also depart from Camaret at 8.45am on Wednesday from May until mid-July, and Monday to Saturday at 8.45am from mid-July until the end of August (return fare adult 17OF/€25.92, under-17s 100F/€15.24).

Finist’Mer operate high-speed ferries to Ouessant in summer only, from Camaret (02.98.27.88.44; return fare adult 160F/€24.39, under-17s 95F/€14.48), Le Conquet (x02.98.89.16.61; adult 148F/€22.56, under-17s 84F/€12.81) and Lanildut, 25km northwest of Brest (x02.98.04.40.72; adult 155F/€23.63, under-17s 90F/€13.72). Bikes cost 65–70F/€9.91–10.67 extra. In June and September, they offer a daily departure from Camaret at 8.30am, calling at Le Conquet at 9.30am, another departure from Le Conquet at 5pm, and an extra departure from Le Conquet at 11am on Saturday. In July and August, they offer a morning departure from Camaret at 9.30am, plus up to seven ferries daily from Le Conquet and an additional service from Lanildut, departing at 9.20am daily and taking just half an hour to reach Ouessant. Certain summer sailings call in at Molene as well.

In addition, you can fly to Ouessant with Finist’Air (02.98.84.64.87). The fifteen-minute flights leave Brest daily at 8.30am and 5pm in summer, 8.30am and 4.45pm in winter. The adult single fare is 340F/€51.84 (440F/€67.08 return), under-13s travel half-price, and groups of three or more adults go for 270F/€41.16 each.

Ouessant

The ride to OUESSANT is generally a tranquil affair – though the ferry has to pick its way from buoy to buoy, through a sea which is liable suddenly to blow up and become too dangerous to navigate. There have been many wrecks among the reefs, most famously the Drummond Castle which foundered as the finale to a con¬cert celebrating the end of its voyage from Cape Town to England in June 1896. For all its storms, though, the climate is mild — Ouessant even records the high¬est mean temperatures in France in January and February.

You arrive on Ouessant at the modern harbour in the ominous-sounding Baie du Stiff. There are a scattering of houses here, and dotted about the island, but the only town (with the only hotels and restaurants) is 4km distant at LAMPAUL. Everybody from the boat heads there, either by the bus that meets each arriving ferry, on bicycles rented for about 60F/€9.15 per day from one of the many wait¬ing entrepreneurs, or in a long walking procession that straggles along the one road. Bicycle rental is the most convenient option, as the island is really too big to explore on foot.

As well as its more mundane facilities, Lampaul has Ouessant’s best beaches sprawled around its bay. There are few specific sights, and the whole place quickly becomes very familiar. But the town cemetery is worth visiting, with its war memo¬rial listing all the ships in which the townsfolk were lost, and its graves of unknown sailors washed ashore. A unique Ouessant tradition is also on show in the cemetery chapel – an array of wax proella crosses, which were used during the funerals of those islanders who never returned from the sea, to symbolize their absent remains.

At NIOU, 1km northwest, the Maison du Niou is actually two houses, one of which is a museum of island history, and the other is a reconstruction of a tradi¬tional island house, complete with two massive “box-beds”, one for the parents and the other for the children (April Tues–Sun 2-6.30pm; May to mid-July & Sept daily 10.30am–6.30pm; mid-July to Aug daily 10.30am–6.30pm & 9–11,pm: Oct–March Tues–Sun 2–4pm; 25F/€3.81). Officially, it forms half of the Eco-Musee d’Ouessant, in combination with the Creac’h lighthouse, another kilo-metre northwest (same hours; same ticket). This contains a small museum about lighthouses, and makes a good point from which to set out along the barren and exposed rocks of the north coast. Particularly in September and other times of migration, it’s a remarkable spot for bird-watching; puffins, storm petrels and cor¬morants can all be seen. The star-shaped formations of crumbling walls are not extraterrestrial relics, but built so that the sheep – peculiarly tame here – can shelter from the strong winds.

Practicalities

General information on Ouessant is available from the tourist office in the main square in Lampaul (April–Aug Mon–Sat 9.30am–12.30pm & 2–5pm, Sun 9.30am-12.30pm; Sept-March Mon-Sat 9.45am-noon & 2-4pm, Sun loam-noon; 02.98.48.85.83).

Lampaul boasts its own brand-new little hostel, La Croix Rouge (02.98.48.84.53), where a dorm bed plus breakfast costs 70F/€10.67. Also in Lampaul, the adjacent hotels Ocean (02.98.48.80.03;) and Fromveur (02.98.48.81.30) both offer a fairly basic standard of accommodation; the Fromveur specializes in traditional island cooking, which consists of attempting to render seaweed and mutton as palatable as possible, while the Ocean has a side-line in organizing musical evenings. The Roch Ar Mor, just down the street (02.98.48.80.19; 0; closed Jan-March), is a marginally more attractive alternative. There is a small official campsite, the Penn ar Bed (02.98.48.84.65; closed Oct March). You could, in fact, camp almost anywhere on the island, making arrangements with the nearest farmhouse (which may well let out rooms, too).

All the hotel restaurants serve menus for under 100F/€15.24, but if you just come for a day it’s a good idea to buy a picnic before you set out - the Lampaul shops have limited and rather pricey supplies.

Molene

MOLENE is quite well populated for a sparse strip of sand. The port itself is better protected than that of Ouessant, and so there are more fishermen based here. The island’s inhabitants derive their income from seaweed collection and drying - and to an extent from crabbing and crayfish, which they gather on foot, canoe and even tractor at low tide. The tides are more than usually dramatic, halving or doubling the island’s territory at a stroke. Hence the origin of the name Molene, which comes from the Breton for “the bald isle”.

As for sights, there is even less of tangible note than on Ouessant. Walking the rocks and the coast is the basic activity. Once again, though, the island cemetery is poignant and interesting, redolent of small community life in its concentration of babies’ graves from a typhoid epidemic in the nineteenth century; they are marked by silver crosses, repainted each November 1st. Equally small-time is the island’s main anecdote, told to anyone drinking an evening away, of the evening in 1967 when the whole population gathered to watch the oil tanker Torrey Canyon floundering offshore in the passage de Fromveur.

Practicalities

Few visitors do more than look around for an afternoon’s excursion from Le Conquet, but it’s quite possible to stay on Molene and to enjoy it. There are rooms - very chilly in winter - at Kastell An Doal (02.98.07.39.11; 40; closed Jan), one of the old buildings by the port, and it’s also possible to arrange to stay in a private house (02.98.07.39.05 for details).

Pont-Aven

PONT-AVEN, 14km east of Concarneau and just inland from the tip of the Aven estuary, is a small port packed with tourists and art galleries. This was where Gauguin came to paint in the 1880s, before he left for Tahiti in search of a South Seas idyll. By all accounts Gauguin was a rude and arrogant man who lorded it over the local population (who were already well used to posing in “peasant attire” for visiting artists). As a painter and printmaker, however, he produced some of his finest work in Pont-Aven, and his influence was such that the Pont-Aven School of fellow artists developed here. He spent some years working closely with these – the best known of whom was Emile Bernard – and they in turn helped to revitalize his own approach.

For all the local hype, however, the town has no permanent collection of Gauguin’s work. The Musée Municipal (daily: mid-Feb to mid-June & mid-Sept to Dec l0am -12.30pm & 2-6pm; mid-June to mid-Sept l0am-7pm; 27F/€4.12) in the Mairie holds changing exhibitions of the numerous members of the school, and other artists active in Brittany during the same period, but you can’t count on paintings by the man himself. You will however find an interesting account of the many Irish painters who were inspired by and worked in the town

Huelgoat

Image via Wikipedia

HUELGOAT**


Population 1,687

The forest, lake, running water and rocks make Huelgoat one of the finest sites** in inner Brittany which come under the aegis of the Parc naturel regional d’Armorique. Huelgoat is a favourite place for anglers (especially for carp and perch in the lake and trout in the river) and a good excursion centre; the Maison de la Faune sauvage , located in the former railway station at Scrignac 13km/8mi to the north-east, displays more than 70 specimens of stuffed animals to be found in the area.

The Town

The 16C church with a modern belfry stands near the main square in the town centre. Inside there are sculpted purlins and to the left of the chancel is a statue of St Yves, the patron saint of the parish, between a rich man and a pauper. Overlooking Huelgoat, the Renaissance Chapelle Notre-Dame-des-Cieux with its 18C bell tower, has curious painted low-relief sculptures depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin and the Passion around the chancel and the side altars. A pardon takes place on the first Sunday in August.

Where to stay

Hotel du Lac –  02 98 99 71 14 – closed Jan and Mon – 15 rooms, 45/52 € 6.10 €; restaurant 16/28 E. Despite its characterless facade, this renovated hotel is a good place to stop and at a very reasonable price. The rooms are clean and well furnished, and the restaurant offers a nice view of the lake. There is also a pizzeria-cum-steak house.

La Ferme de Porz Kloz – Tredudon-le-Moine, 29690 Berrien – 11 km/6.6mi north-west of Huelgoat via D 14, direction Berrien and then D 42 on the left – 02 98 99 61 65 closed end of Nov to Easter and Tue – reservation required – 7 rooms, Time seems to have stopped in this 17th century group of farms, which used to be part of the Relecq abbey. The rooms, decorated with family furniture, are particularly cosy. The reception area has some photographs on display depicting life in Brittany in the 19th century.

WALK

The rocks

Allow 1hr 30min on foot.

From rue de Berrien past the lake, follow the signposted path.

Chaos du Moulin – The path cuts through the rocks dominating the course of the River Argent. This pile of rounded granite rocks, surrounded by greenery, is very picturesque.

Grotte du Diable – To reach this, climb down an iron ladder. A brook babbles below.

Roche Tremblante – North bank. By leaning against this 100t block at a precise point, you can make it rock on its base.

An uphill path, known as Lovers’ Walk (Sentier des Amoureux), leads directly through the woods to Artus’ Cave and to Boars’ Pool (see The Forest below).

Allee Violette – A pleasant path in the woods along the left bank of the River Argent ends this ramble through the rocks.

To return to the centre of Huelgoat, turn right at Pont-Rouge onto the road from Carhaix and then take rue du Docteur-Jacq.

*The forest

Extending over 1 000ha/2 471 acres, the Forest of Huelgoat lies at the foot of the southern slope of the Monts d’Arrée mountain range. Its tortured topography consists of a series of hills divided by deep valleys. The forest features a great many different landscapes and colours; it also contains strange, picturesque sites which have inspired many traditional tales and legends. (Visitors can discover these sites with the help of signposts and car parks: see below).

Promenade du Fer a Cheval and Le Gouffre:

Allow 30min on foot. After Pont-Rouge, take the Horseshoe Walk on the right. This is a pleasant walk through the woods along the River Argent. Then return to the Carhaix road for 300/328yd. A stairway (39 steps) leads down to the chasm. The River Argent flowing from the Lac d’Huelgoat, falls into a deep cavity to reappear 150m/164yd further on. A path leads to a look-out point (15min there and back–difficult and no security ramp) commanding a view of the chasm. You can continue this walk through the woods by the river passing near the Mare aux Fees (Fairies’ Pool) and combining it with the Promenade du Canal.

Follow the signposts to the mine (La Mine), turn right at the bridge onto an unsurfaced road and at the former mine, continue along an uphill path to the right to the power station (usine electrique). A footbridge spans the canal and leads to the opposite bank.

Promenade du Canal – Allow 2hr on foot there and back on rue du Docteur-Jacq. This walk follows the bank of the upper canal. A reservoir and two canals were dug in the 19C to work the silver-bearing lead mines, already known to the Romans. The waters were used to wash the ore and drive a crusher. From the far end of the canal walk you may continue on to the chasm; this walk is described in the opposite direction, see below.

Promenade du Clair-Ruisseau – Allow 1 hr 30min on foot there and back. From the car park after Pont-Rouge, take allée du Clair-Ruisseau. This path half way up the slope affords fine views of the rock-strewn stream bed. A stairway (25 steps) on the left leads down to the Mare aux Sangliers (Boars’ Pool) in a pretty setting of rocks shaped rather like boars’ heads, hence the name. Cross over the rustic bridge to allée de la Mare on the left.

After the great stairway (218 steps), which provides the quickest access to Camp d’Artus (Artus’ Camp), you can see up above, on the right, the entrance to Grotte d’Artus (Artus’ Cave).

Continue up the path which after 800m/0.5mi takes you to the camp. Boulders mark the entrance which was dominated by an artificial mound.

It is an important example of a Gallic fortified site, bordered by two enclosures. In spite of the encroaching vegetation, it is possible to go round the camp by a path (lkm/0.6mi) following the remaining second elliptical enclosure which is fairly well preserved.

Finistere

A Pleasure for the Palate
If you’re in North Finistère, try the terribly chic hotel restaurant of Le Temps de Vivre in Roscoff or, near Morlaix, the rustic stone hostel Auberge du Puits de Jeanne in Plouegat Moysan, serving traditional country fare such as the pork dish Kig ha Farz.

To the Northwest, the Hotel Pointe St Mathieu boasts exquisite dishes in a timeless picturesque setting while in Plomodiern, doorway to the Crozon Peninsula, sits l’Auberge des Glazik, a character gourmet stopover.

In Quimper, Ti Coz serves Michelin-standard dishes in a modest, blue-shuttered setting while at La Cigale Egaree, Quimperle, you can delight your palate in a peaceful, elegant environment.

French markets, Finistere style

If you’re keen on authentic French flavours, look no further than local weekly markets. Early birds will see housewives in tabards selecting the choicest fruit, youngsters jostling with wizened locals for the best baguettes and all ages bargaining for live crabs and shiny mackerel.

In the north, don’t miss the specialty pink onions of Roscoff on Wednesdays or the nearby spires of St Pol de Leon enlivened by Tuesday’s market: on Saturdays head for the sloping historic streets of St Renan or Morlaix whose unmissable arches oversee the hustle and bustle of traders renowned for hearty produce.

To the south, the gracious cathedral city of Quimper fills its streets with crafts clothes and specialties on Wednesdays, Fridays and weekends while the fortified town of Concarneau opens its square to eager market-goers on Mondays and Fridays.

Look for lobster and langoustines, mouth-watering groceries and local treats like Douarnenez’s speciality Kouign Amann butter cake. French markets are a feast for all the senses!

Brittany’s best crepes

Ideally teamed with cool Breton cider from earthenware drinking bowls, crêpes are the best Breton speciality and a creperie gourmande guarantees crisp-soft crepe perfection.

If you’re on the Ile de Batz near Roscoff, pause at La Cassonade with cheery service and coastal views: in Morlaix try l’Hermine – renowned for innovative fillings and good service – and further south. the Men Lann Du by Plomeur is ideally placed for lunchtime stopovers, offering a rustic family environment and crepes that are hard to beat!

CULTURE AND NATURE

Finistère has been spoilt. It has expansive sandy beaches tipped by turquoise waters stretching into blue horizons: it has fertile soil producing perfect ingredients for fine cuisine: it has a rich cultural and historical heritage that includes chateaux, fairies and mythical drowned cities.

Take Morlaix as a starting point, classed as ‘Land of Art and History’. Here, the famous viaducts dominate both town and happy harbour while winding alleyways lead up to ancient timber buildings and chapels hosting art exhibitions.

Quimper, with its restored twin-spire cathedral and bright ancient buildings offers modern shops and fabulously affordable museums (Try the Musee des Beaux-Arts and the HB Henriot Faience museum) while Concarneau’s majestic ramparts shelter streets of curious shops and inviting restaurants. Take the coast road heading west and discover Pont l’Abbe whose magnificent town hall and waterside setting provide a perfect shopping backdrop.

On a smaller scale, look for Petites Cités de Caractère which are not cities but villages with particular character. Locronan is perhaps most popular, the setting for many films with its open cobbled square and busy craftsmen, while Le Faou and Guerlesquin are also well-known (Le Faou for its church sculptures and 16th century architecture, Guerlesquin for its startling old prison in the town centre – not to he missed!).

However, few visitors realize that Roscoff is a charming historic town hoarding enviable stonework and scariest restaurants, an ancient ossuary and a discovery trail that will share hidden secrets, or that the sleepy mediaeval village of Pont Croix has a spire that inspired a whole architectural trend, twin cobbled streets sloping to the river and a tree-lined square which is quintessentially French.

No Finistère visit would be complete without a trip to the beautiful riverside Pont Aven, steeped in artistic heritage and still boasting contemporary exhibitions. Home of great art and also of wonderful butter biscuits!

Castles and cairns

Following the discovery trails of historic towns, choose one of the many manors and chateaux. Chateau de Kerjean hosts exhibitions within its rimmed walls and carved parapets while the startling pink fairytale castle of Trevarez offers beautiful landscaped gardens and a photogenic setting.

To experience even further back in history head east of Morlaix to the Cairn de Barnenez, an ancient burial mound constructed from loose stone: or hunt down the prehistoric burial chambers (allees couvrtes) and standing stones (dolmens) that are sprinkled throughout rural Finistère.

Hiking, biking and wide open spaces

Off-season, Finistère’s natural beauty comes to the fore, making it an ideal destination for nature-lovers. The area is threaded with grandes and petites randonees (GR=hikes, PR = easier walks) as well as biking trails and coastal paths.

If moorlands and wild heather are your preference, journey to the heart of the Mons d’Arree and national park where the viewpoint Rochers de Cragou reveals sweeping valleys, mountainside chapels and winking lakes.

For waterside wandering, try the Nantes Brest canal, the breathtaking Baie de Morlaix and the Kerrema dunes near Plouescat. For a glimpse of the dramatic granite rocks and crashing waves, head west to Pointe du Raz and Pointe du Van with the Baie des Trépassés in between, then relax at the many picturesque fishing ports.




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