Huelgoat

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HUELGOAT**


Population 1,687

The forest, lake, running water and rocks make Huelgoat one of the finest sites** in inner Brittany which come under the aegis of the Parc naturel regional d’Armorique. Huelgoat is a favourite place for anglers (especially for carp and perch in the lake and trout in the river) and a good excursion centre; the Maison de la Faune sauvage , located in the former railway station at Scrignac 13km/8mi to the north-east, displays more than 70 specimens of stuffed animals to be found in the area.

The Town

The 16C church with a modern belfry stands near the main square in the town centre. Inside there are sculpted purlins and to the left of the chancel is a statue of St Yves, the patron saint of the parish, between a rich man and a pauper. Overlooking Huelgoat, the Renaissance Chapelle Notre-Dame-des-Cieux with its 18C bell tower, has curious painted low-relief sculptures depicting scenes from the life of the Virgin and the Passion around the chancel and the side altars. A pardon takes place on the first Sunday in August.

Where to stay

Hotel du Lac –  02 98 99 71 14 – closed Jan and Mon – 15 rooms, 45/52 € 6.10 €; restaurant 16/28 E. Despite its characterless facade, this renovated hotel is a good place to stop and at a very reasonable price. The rooms are clean and well furnished, and the restaurant offers a nice view of the lake. There is also a pizzeria-cum-steak house.

La Ferme de Porz Kloz – Tredudon-le-Moine, 29690 Berrien – 11 km/6.6mi north-west of Huelgoat via D 14, direction Berrien and then D 42 on the left – 02 98 99 61 65 closed end of Nov to Easter and Tue – reservation required – 7 rooms, Time seems to have stopped in this 17th century group of farms, which used to be part of the Relecq abbey. The rooms, decorated with family furniture, are particularly cosy. The reception area has some photographs on display depicting life in Brittany in the 19th century.

WALK

The rocks

Allow 1hr 30min on foot.

From rue de Berrien past the lake, follow the signposted path.

Chaos du Moulin – The path cuts through the rocks dominating the course of the River Argent. This pile of rounded granite rocks, surrounded by greenery, is very picturesque.

Grotte du Diable – To reach this, climb down an iron ladder. A brook babbles below.

Roche Tremblante – North bank. By leaning against this 100t block at a precise point, you can make it rock on its base.

An uphill path, known as Lovers’ Walk (Sentier des Amoureux), leads directly through the woods to Artus’ Cave and to Boars’ Pool (see The Forest below).

Allee Violette – A pleasant path in the woods along the left bank of the River Argent ends this ramble through the rocks.

To return to the centre of Huelgoat, turn right at Pont-Rouge onto the road from Carhaix and then take rue du Docteur-Jacq.

*The forest

Extending over 1 000ha/2 471 acres, the Forest of Huelgoat lies at the foot of the southern slope of the Monts d’Arrée mountain range. Its tortured topography consists of a series of hills divided by deep valleys. The forest features a great many different landscapes and colours; it also contains strange, picturesque sites which have inspired many traditional tales and legends. (Visitors can discover these sites with the help of signposts and car parks: see below).

Promenade du Fer a Cheval and Le Gouffre:

Allow 30min on foot. After Pont-Rouge, take the Horseshoe Walk on the right. This is a pleasant walk through the woods along the River Argent. Then return to the Carhaix road for 300/328yd. A stairway (39 steps) leads down to the chasm. The River Argent flowing from the Lac d’Huelgoat, falls into a deep cavity to reappear 150m/164yd further on. A path leads to a look-out point (15min there and back–difficult and no security ramp) commanding a view of the chasm. You can continue this walk through the woods by the river passing near the Mare aux Fees (Fairies’ Pool) and combining it with the Promenade du Canal.

Follow the signposts to the mine (La Mine), turn right at the bridge onto an unsurfaced road and at the former mine, continue along an uphill path to the right to the power station (usine electrique). A footbridge spans the canal and leads to the opposite bank.

Promenade du Canal – Allow 2hr on foot there and back on rue du Docteur-Jacq. This walk follows the bank of the upper canal. A reservoir and two canals were dug in the 19C to work the silver-bearing lead mines, already known to the Romans. The waters were used to wash the ore and drive a crusher. From the far end of the canal walk you may continue on to the chasm; this walk is described in the opposite direction, see below.

Promenade du Clair-Ruisseau – Allow 1 hr 30min on foot there and back. From the car park after Pont-Rouge, take allée du Clair-Ruisseau. This path half way up the slope affords fine views of the rock-strewn stream bed. A stairway (25 steps) on the left leads down to the Mare aux Sangliers (Boars’ Pool) in a pretty setting of rocks shaped rather like boars’ heads, hence the name. Cross over the rustic bridge to allée de la Mare on the left.

After the great stairway (218 steps), which provides the quickest access to Camp d’Artus (Artus’ Camp), you can see up above, on the right, the entrance to Grotte d’Artus (Artus’ Cave).

Continue up the path which after 800m/0.5mi takes you to the camp. Boulders mark the entrance which was dominated by an artificial mound.

It is an important example of a Gallic fortified site, bordered by two enclosures. In spite of the encroaching vegetation, it is possible to go round the camp by a path (lkm/0.6mi) following the remaining second elliptical enclosure which is fairly well preserved.