Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Five things to do in Rennes

In a nutshell: Rennes, the capital of Brittany, is a city of contrasts, where 2,000 years of history lie comfortably with a modern, youthful vibe. Much, though not all, of its early architecture was destroyed in 1720, when a drunken carpenter spilled a chandelier which started a six-day fire that rampaged through the city’s wooden buildings. Hence, many of the centre’s buildings date back to the 18th century. Today Rennes is known as a busy, student-friendly city and the safest city of its size in France.

When to visit: More than 50,000 of Rennes’ population are students, so summer months are quite empty of people. Spring and autumn are much more lively times to visit and early December usually hosts the very worthwhile Transmusical Festival.

Watch out for: Shops close between 12pm and 2pm each day, and all day on Sundays.

Useful website:

1. Remember ye olde times

In medieval times, the Place des Lices was a site for jousting knights. Today the space is used for a covered, open-air food market. Reconstructed jousting battles take place on Saturday mornings and the sounds of the clash of lances on shields can be heard over the hustle, bustle and good natured bargaining of one of France’s largest markets.

2. Pancakes every day

When in Rome, do as the Romans do, but when in Rennes visit a creperie. These houses of gastronomic delight are the places to find the typical Breton galettes and crepes. Similar to pancakes but made using Buckwheat flour, galettes are savory treats packed with a choice of cheese, ham, eggs and more. At a meal it is common to order a series of galettes and crepes, one after the other. Rue St Melaine is lined with a number of quality creperies.

3. Quench your thirst

Given the size of the student population, it comes as no surprise that the nightlife in Rennes is a vibrant one. The centre of the action is Rue St Michel, a narrow, cobbled, medieval street with wooden framed buildings. It has earned itself the nickname ‘Rue de la Soif’ which translates as ‘street of thirst’. Further away in Legraverend, the Couleurs Cafe (www.couleurscafe.com) - a world record breaker for having thousands of types of cocktails - is a great place to start or finish up the night.

4. Throw shapes

The Theatre National du Bretagne is renowned throughout France for its eclecticism and bold presentations. If you don’t speak French, sitting through a three-hour tragedy could be a bit of a drag. Alternatively, the theatre regularly runs dance and music productions. The wonder and wow-factor of the theatre’s Circus Arts performances, however, transcend any language barriers. Visit www.t-n-b.fr for a full programme.

5. Take a trip

An hour’s drive north of Rennes is the stunning Mont Saint Michel (www.ot-montsaintmichel.com), a gothic-styled Benedictine Abbey located on a small quasi-island. Having been an abbey, a fortress under siege and a prison, Mont Saint Michel was made a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 1979 and attracts more than three million visitors a year. Take a day trip to explore the abbey and small village that have grown inside its fortified walls. Wander the narrow twisted lanes, have mussels and chips for lunch at one of the fine restaurants and take a guided tour of the abbey. Les Courriers buses depart from Rennes daily (http://www.lescourriersbretons.fr/).

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